Panza del Artista - Tourist Info

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Welcome | About | Reviews

Specific Info: Lima | Recommended Restaurants in Lima
General Info: Cusco | Specific Info: Cusco | Recommended Restaurants in Cusco | Specific Info: Panza Del Artista

General Info, Peru:

What type of information do you recommend prior to getting to Peru?

Background and Reading:
~Conquest of the Incas, by John Hemming
~The White Rock, by Hugh Thomson
~Peru, Lonely Planet or Footprint or Insight Guides
~Realm of the Incas, Max Milligan (photography)
~Anything from Mario Vargas Llosa, but especially The Feast of the Goat
~Martin Chambi: Photographs, 1920-1950
~Celestine Prophecy by James Redfield
~Ancient Cuzco: Heartland of the Inca (Joe R. and Teresa Lozano Long
Series in Latin American and Latino Art and Culture) by Brian S. Bauer
-- (Haven't read it but it looks interesting!)
~The Royal Commentaries of the Incas and General History of Peru,
Abridged by GarciLaso De la Vega, Karen Spalding, and Harold V. Livermore

Films:
~"La Ciudad de los Perros�� (1985) Francisco J. Lombardi
~"La Boca del Lobo" (1989) Francisco J. Lombardi
~"Pantaleon y las Visitadoras" (1999) Francisco J. Lombardi
~"Paloma de Papel" ( 2003 ) Directed by Fabrizio Aguilar
~"Aguirre, the Wrath of God" (1972), Peru/W. Germany, directed by
Werner Herzog
~"The Dancer Upstairs" (2002) by John Malkovich (Definately worth
watching, and in English!)

Where can I stay in Lima, near the airport, prior to my flight to Cusco?
~Hostal Mami Panchita Owner, Toon Meeuwsen (they can also arrange
airport transfers for around $35 r/t)
198 Avenida Federico Gallesi (Antes Av. San Miguel) San Miguel - Lima
Tel/Fax: (0051-1)2630749
Tel: (0051-1)2637203
E-mail: info@mamipanchita.com
Web:www.mamipanchita.com

Where can I stay in Lima near great walking, good food, and away from
the chaos central Lima?
~Miraflores Park Hotel $$$$
~Marriott in Miraflores $$$
~Casa Andina or Casa Andina Private Collection $$$
~Hotel Las Americas $$
~Hostal Buena Vista $

What are some general background information prior to coming to Peru?
~You must bring a valid Passport to Peru.
~You do not need to get a Visa to enter Peru in advance from most
countries. Please visit the www.peruvianembassy.us to confirm any issues.
~Many airlines fly to Lima, Peru (LIM) from the US – Continental via
Houston and Newark; LanChile via Los Angeles, NYC and Miami; American
via Dallas and Miami; Delta via Atlanta; Air Canada (and United) from
Toronto; AeroMexico via Mexico City. There are other combinations via
Central America which might cost less.
~There are two airport taxes in Peru which must be paid in cash.
The fee is $25 US departing from Lima internationally. Domestically
the airport tax is roughly $5 US.
~Do not pack valuables (cash, cameras, jewelry) in your checked
luggage. All valuables should be hand carried. -In Lima, your bags
are X-rayed again and in the past, valuables have been stolen.
~You do not need any Spanish , though basic words are always a
great way of opening doors.

Specific Info, Lima:

Who can help me out in Lima or along the Peruvian Coast for transport or tours?

~Peruvian Expeditions is a great new partner of ours for all your Lima, Nazca or Coastal needs - from surfing along the North Coast to colonial Arequipa and the natural marine sanctuary of Paracas. You may contact Luis Calderon, to book internal flights in Peru, organize a few days along the coast or a Nazca fly-by; he also offers Lima City Tours and roundtrip airport-to-hotel service for a safe ride. He'll even arrange an airport-hotel-airport overnight for a very reasonable fee. He tells us you can also feel free to give him a call - he speaks great English!
Home +51-1-578-4942 OR mobile: +51-1-9983-44763 or +51-1-9951-86818 .

What type tourist activities do you recommend in Lima?

~In Miraflores, there is great walking around Parque Kennedy along
Avenida Larco until you get to LarcoMar, a large shopping mall
(and a mindless escape prior to leaving) along the cliffs prior to
hitting the Pacific Ocean. There is shopping and views and
restaurants all along the main avenues near here.

As for museums in Lima, mostly I recommend this short-list:
~Museo de Oro because it’s quite expansive and ridiculous. An
amazing amount of items purported to be looted, fake or
refinished. But who knows!
~Also, the San Francisco church in downtown Lima is quite
impressive – catacombs, vaulted spaces and affords a quick
peek at the main plaza of Lima.
~Finally, the archeology museum is one of the best and most
important places in Peru. Authentic and well done perspective
on all the historical parts you’ll see assembled live in Cusco.

My Recommended Restaurants in Lima:

~La Gloria in Miraflores is one of the elder statesmen of restaurants
in Lima. The owner, Oscar Velarde, can often be found at the bar,
laughing forcefully with the artists and businessmen (and their wives!)
of Lima. He has partnered with Tammy in Cusco to create the best
restaurants in Cusco as named above – Cicciolina and Baco. This food
is expensive but absolutely some of the best food in Peru – small plates
or entrees, the diversity and preparation are worlds apart from most
anything else and it’s one of the best values around if you have the
funds to splurge once in Peru. They don’t open until 8pm, so eat a late
lunch! Calle Atahualpa 201, Miraflores Tel 445-5705
~Chez Wong, en la Victoria. best ceviche! and quite a show.
Call first: telf#470-6217 (he is now on all the gourmet tours)
~Rafael, in Miraflores at San Martin 300; telf#242-4149. Ex-chef at
La Gloria before he opened his own place. Excellent!!!
~El Torito, (telf#247-4018) a blk from the plaza de armas in Surco.
family style. great food and great prices. the best chupe de
camarrones, also sancochado (español), and comida norteña :
cabrito al horno.
~La Dalmacia – sister to La Gloria, owned and operated by
Oscar’s wife.
~La Fonda – daughter to La Gloria and Dalmacia, owned and
operated by their daughter. San Fernando 380, Miraflores;
telf# 241-5944
~La Canta Rana (Singing Frog) in Barranco is the best/funnest
Ceviche around – Genova 101 next to the Barranco market on
the corner – 3 blocks or so from the main square of Barranco.
Also the mansions and art galleries Calle San Martin and it’s side
streets are fantastic as is the beach overlooks above the cliffs.
~Sonia in Chorillos – south of Miraflores in Chorillos (Calle Santa
Rosa #173, Altura Regatas; telf#467-3788), a bit hidden, but
one of the better ceviches – FRESH!
~Sarita in Pulpitos – a bit out of town, but a great summer-time
excursión.
~Astrid and Gaston – central Miraflores off the Ovalo – always
one of the best/fanciest in town. Chef is famous for his cookbooks
and style.
~Tanta – Miraflores – Hip and stylish traditional Peruvian fare
from Gaston Acurio (same as above).
~Senior Cheff in Chorillos has a Japanese and Peruvian fusión
thing with mouth-watering Sushi/Sashimi as well as traditional
Peruvian Cebiche and calamari…yum.
~Cena
~Antica Pizza – Barranco
~La Bohemia

General Info, Cusco:

What are general issues surrounding one’s visit to Cusco?

~You will not need any special vaccines for the Cuzco region;
however, if you have never received MMR (measles, mumps, rubella),
Tetanus, Hep A, B, or C and other common shots that any traveler
might want, it is highly advised that you look into that before this trip.
Yellow Fever and Malaria are not an issue in these parts of Peru (but
are an issue in the Amazon to the East).

~Altitude can be a serious issue. Cuzco is at 11,000 feet (3,300
meters above see level) and the locals drink tea made from the
coca leaf to alleviate the build-up of pressure. This is not cocaine
nor is it an altered substance or chemical; it is an herb, like
chamomile. If you do not want to drink it (or chew the leaf) you
do not have to and you won't offend anyone. It really does work,
though. Alternatively, all pharmacies in Cuzco have altitude
sickness medication over the counter and is easily accessible.

~Bacteria different from ours is readily available in all tap water
and most fresh fruits and vegetables. DO NOT DRINK THE WATER.
DO NOT EAT STREET FOOD. DO NOT EAT FRESH VEGGIES NOR
FRUITS THAT HAVE NOT BEEN WASHED AND PEELED BY YOU.

~There are plenty of opportunities to eat vegetarian if you're so
inclined.

~Over the counter antibiotics and bacteria-killing drugs are available
if you have not brought them from the US, in case of diarrhea or
dehydration. Liquids work wonders.

~There is no terrorism in the Cusco region. The Shining Path
(Sendero Luminoso) and Tupac Amaru are no longer active in
Peru. There is very strong military police presence in all cities
and towns and most ruins.

~Weather is generally mild during the rainy season from October
thru March. There is often a large downpour mid-afternoon so be
sure have a light parka, raingear or umbrella. Even with these items,
you may find yourself joining the other huddled masses in doorways
and under porticoes or balconies waiting out the drenching. In the
dry season, mid-April thru mid-September, it feels hotter than it is
due to the altitude. At night, it is cold and often feels colder than it
is. Pack accordingly with ability to use removable layers and add
them should you be trekking into the late afternoons – as soon
as the sun hits the horizon there is an immediate breeze and the
goose-bumps set in. Brrrrrr.

~You should expect to use about $45/day in odds and ends. You can
easily spend more on nicer restaurants; also, crafts and artesian
opportunities abound!

~If you are very active there are great trails and cobblestone streets,
treks through crops and up steep steps of ruins -- bring great walking
shoes, not hiking boots.

~ATM's are everywhere in downtown Cusco and even now in the
Sacred Valley. These are the most convenient and efficient method
to draw money. I do not recommend American Express for Peru, nor
travelers checks. Cash is OK, but not recommended in large quantities.
US Dollars are accepted at almost all places.

~Cusco is very safe with minor theft being the only real crime.
Typical traveling caution is recommended: don't bring nor wear
expensive jewelry, don't wave your wallet around in a market,
keep your camera(s) under your arm and in front of you at all
times and not loosely dangling, do not walk home drunk at night,
do not take any strange pills from strangers or cute locals at the
bars.

Is there a road to Tres Cruces?
~Yes, the road to Paucartambo and Puerto Maldonado gets you to
Tres Cruces, a wonderful vantage perched above the cloud forest
with spectacular sunrises from the East over the Amazon! Difficult
to navigate in the rainy season (Jan-April), but well worth it in the
dry season. Spectacular scenery with a frigid morning nip.

Is there basic travel and adventure company in Cusco?
~SAS TRAVEL ADVENTURE - Machu Picchu, treks, guides and rentals
Margot Quintana
Gerente de Operaciones
Calle del Medio 123- Plaza de Armas CUZCO- PERU
Telefax +015 -084 -24 30 50
E-mail: info@sastraveladventure.com or info@perutravelservices.com

Is there more specialized services from which I can tailor-make a trip, adventure or arrange a fixer for photographic or documentary services?
~Mery Calderon - mcalderon@inturkuoda.com
www.inturkuoda.com

Train to Machu Picchu: Do we need advance reservations?
~Always recommended, and there are several ways of doing this
– www.perurail.com as well as http://www.saexplorers.org/informsheets/peru/59682macchupichutransport.html.
There is also a new competitor on the same tracks Machu Picchu Train.
Check them out as an alternative coming sometime soon.

Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo): What kind of accommodations
are there and how far in advance do we need to reserve them.
Can you recommend a hotel?
~I’ve had great feedback from everyone staying at
http://www.gringobills.com/ .
~If you’re looking for a more magical place to stay, the
Bird Sanctuary is a high-end alternative at about $300/night.
The best bargain in the high-end range for the once-in-a-lifetime
visitor to Machu Picchu.
~Also www.grupointi.com has a few great places that are more
affordable such as Inti Inn.
~Another interesting place is Rupa Wasi Eco Lodge: info@rupawasi.net
or phone +51-84-211101 / +51-1-9426-7138
~Oh, and one other thing…El Indio Feliz is a great dinner spot while
in Aguas Calientes telf# 084-227914 or 211090.

Machu Picchu: What kind of guided tours are available and do we
need one?
~SAS Travel (http://www.sastravelperu.com/index.html) can connect
you with a guide. If you’re able to not plan ahead, there are
usually guides waiting at the entrance who are all certified to be work
there. That is your best value. Most of what they say is not perfect
information but it is great to hear some background contextual
information while roaming the ruins!
~Definitely get up early one morning (5am to get the first bus at
5:30am) and see the ruins prior to the masses (11am). It is always
busy up there but don’t let that stop you from hiking up to La
Puerta del Sol or to one of the other side hikes away from the
hordes (my favorite is Waynu Picchu behind the ruins,
towards the Sun Gate)!

What festival activities do you recommend around Cusco?
Are there some good festivals worth scheduling a trip around?
~One very easy activity to check out during the May-July
months is the Feria de Huancaro which is like a county fair
with animals, rides, food and music. Also cock fights if you
can stomach it – great people watching!
Paucartambo is July 14-17th or so every year and worth a trip to
Peru just to see this festival. Info available at tourist offices for
overnight excursions.
~Pentecost is held in Ollantaytambo in June. Ask for details about
this traditional festival with a chicken strung upside down and
galloping drunk horsemen trying to grab it’s neck!
~The entire month of June is the Month of Cusco with parades
and processions in central Cusco, culminating in the all-day
reenactment of the Inti Raymi festival on June 24th. Dancing
and costumes all over! Hard to miss.
~Festival de la Cerveza is also a great music/beer fest end of

May or beginning of June for three days. Look at the posters of
Tourist Info for exact dates and line-up.
~Corpus Cristi is also at the early-June time period and the exact
dates depend on when Easter is…check with the Tourism Office
on Avenida El Sol. This is an enormous processional throughout
the entire of city.
~All day parades thru the month of June for Cusco month. Also on
June 23rd in the plaza is fun chaos with a city-wide serenade to
Cusco!
~Check out Aracari’s web site for more festival information.

What do you know about Ollantaytambo, Pisac, & Chinchero?
~Easily accessible and worth an overnight in either Pisac or
Ollantaytambo. Try to avoid market day (Tues/Thurs) as hordes
of tourists are bused in to wander the market and take photos of
the vegetables. The ruins at all these towns are worth a trip –
taxi or bus is available.
~Willoq and Patacancha Andean highland villages and weaving
towns nestled above Ollantaytambo. Alpaca and Llama villages
en-route with gorgeous valley scenery reminiscent of the Swiss
or Italian Alps.
~A day trip to the farmlands, fields, hills and ruins of Maras and
Moray which sit above the Valley before descending to Urubamba.
These are the salt terraces and agricultural experimentation
amphitheatre of the Incas. There is also a potato center on
the hillsides above Maras. A trek in the “campo�� surrounding
these lands is some of the more spectacular territory in Peru,
with farmers in the corn fields, quinoa stalks and potato plants!

What about places to stay in the Valley?
~More towards Pisac/Urubamba:
http://www.urubambaboutiquelodge.com/index.php
http://www.hotelsolyluna.com/english/bung.htm
http://www.bedbreakfasttraveler.com/directory/Peru/%
5BUrubamba%5DIllarimuy_Hotel_Spa.htm

~More towards Ollantaytambo:
El Albergue Ollantaytambo phone +51 84 204014
Casa Andina

~A great place to eat in Urubamba (and worth a side trip just
to eat here….;-): El Huacatay telf# 084-201790, Jr.Arica620,
Urubamba -- Peruvian fusion food with local and delicious
produce.

What is a great alternative to the very-touristed Sacred Valley?
~Huacarpay is a great lagoon with fishing and bird-watching.
Lucre is another small town near there with fantastic wool
factory with machinery from the 1800’s.
~Andahuaylillas is the best small town that has yet to be fully
developed for tourism. The church and plaza are unique to
South America.
~I would suggest this circuit: the Sistine Chapel and cobbled
streets of Andahuaylillas; the ceramic tile center of Oropesa;
Lake Huacarpay and the Incan and pre-Incan ruins of Tipon
and Pikillacta; Lucre; the fabled evening light of San Geronimo's
plaza.
~The little-traveled route to Paruro overland above Cusco,
through the highest altiplano towns, streams and canyons
of the region.

Are there some good day hikes around Cusco?
~Horses, too -- http://www.perolchico.com/index.html !
~Also the ruins of Q’enko, Sacsayhuaman and Templo del Sol
y de la Luna and then further off is Tambo Machay. Horses are
often used to get from place to place as a tourist draw but what
is fantastic alternative is to jump a bus or taxi up to Tambo and
then return to downtown Cusco walking. Gorgeous!

Where can we go to see and learn about wildlife, wild flowers,
birds, and nature preserves?
~Manu Biosphere Reserve is one of the most diverse and well
known in the world. 3-4 days are needed to visit and I highly
recommend working with Carolina and Oliver at MANU PERU AMAZON.
~If you’re stomach is strong and your 1st world pride can handle it,
the local Zoo is quite interesting. Concrete boxes with wire or
jail-like bars hold the animals at bay, but you’ll never see a
condor so close or a bear so docile. Feeding time around 2pm
is a great moment to hear the monkeys howl and watch the
jaguar pace. Located at the University.

Specific Info, Cusco:

Who is this world-famous Cusco photographer, Martin Chambi?
~Martin Chambi, renowned image-maker from Lake Titicaca
highlands made work of his surroundings of the native peoples,
of Machu Picchu and of Cusco. He settled in Cusco and became
its most famous son. A visit to the current Archives of Martín
Chambi (south of downtown, near the university) with a private
guided tour of Cusco’s native son, Martín Chambi, by his grandson
and studio manager, Teo Allain Chambi. Chambi was an Indigenous
photographer -- the first to photograph his people as seen
through their own eyes. Chambi himself emphasized this on
the occasion of an exhibition in Santiago, Chile: “I have read
that in Chile it is thought that Indians have no culture, that
they are uncivilized, that they are intellectually and artistically
inferior when compared to whites and Europeans. More eloquent
than my opinion, however, are graphic testimonies. It is my
hope that impartial and objective witnesses will examine this
evidence. I feel that I am a representative of my race; my people
speak through my photographs.“ Cost would be a small tip to
Teo Allain ($30-$50).
You may contact him through Adam if you wish to see his
archive or learn more.

How about great places to have lunch & dinner
(see descriptions below)?

~Cicciolina
~Baco
~Incanto
~Pacha Papa
~Los Toldos
~MAP
~Los Perros
~Tradiciones Cusqueñas
~Trotamundos
~La Cofradia
~Let me know!

Are there Peñas (dances with drink and food) in Cusco?
~My favorite activity while in Cusco is going to Tradiciones
Cusqueñas, a traditional food, beer & dance hang out for the
locals. No gringos here. Carlos and Maria from Panza can direct
you to its location about ½ block from Puente Belen on Calle
Belen. You can’t miss the sign. Great lunches and healthy food
(not health-food). The music is fun and everyone dances, but
it is not typical pan-flute playing which you see in the tourist
section.
If you’re looking for something more family-oriented, there
is a great Peña at Pacha Mama. Large tourist buses unload
here but it is a fun spot nevertheless. Also, a great Salsa place
is Garabato which is not good food but great music after 10pm.
For general nightlife, see list below.

Specific Info, Panza del Artista

Additional items depending on time, interest and finances:

~Individual Dinner or Lunch – : a delicious soup and
a main course created by my mother-in-law Maria or sister-in-law Anyela,
usually consisting of a grain or vegetable soup with some protein and
then a wide variety of second plates such as pastel de papas or
pastas, arroz con pollo or carne. I personally prefer home cooking
to most of the lunches I can find in town. Dinners as well. Drinks
apart. $8/person. Optional cooking classes described below!
Oh, and you get to eat it, too!

~Grupo Azul, a traditional Peña - normally @ $25/person. A
wonderfully spirited celebration of live music, food and dance,
Papi Carlos’ local-celebrity musician friends bring their festive
voices, cajón and guitarra. Our family will create a delicious
experience of local food such as tamales, rocoto relleno, fresh
river trout, cuy, lechon [roast suckling pig] and/or roast chicken.
Truly a magical and unique touch to any group activity, in the
gardens of the B&B (stars, fire-pit and White Christ included).
Prices depend on number of people, $225 minimum for a
group of 6 or more.
If you would like to include other friends from around Cusco
who you've met, we can do that too!
As much food and drink as you can eat!

~Andean cooking classes with Xiomara Romero and her mother,
Maria – Xiomara and Maria will bring you to the local markets
just blocks from our home and teach you how to buy the freshest
(and safest!) ingredients for one of several typical Peruvian plates:
Cuy al horno, Aji de Gallina, Sudado de Trucha, Pastel de papas or
Papas a la Huancayina! Yum! $10/person, Dinner or Lunch included!

Who are The Romero’s?
Papi -- Juan Carlos Romero de la Cuba
Mami – Maria Challco Romero
Oldest sister -- Rosita and son Carlitos (7)
Xiomara – my wife!
Younger Sis -- Anyela
Older bro -- Juan Carlos Jr. (Juano)
Youngest bro -- Jose Luis (Pepe)

Panza del Artista, Santiago de Cusco -- www.PanzaDelArtista.com
The address is: Distrito Santiago, Calle Jorge Ochoa 215, interior --
the last door down the private street on the right side, across from
the Divino Amor day care and nunnery.
The phone for the home: 011-51-84/262610 -- calling from within
Cusco, use only the last six digits. “084“ is the prefix for the whole
of the Cusco Region while calling from within Peru, while 51 is the
prefix for Peru.

We also have internet and laundry services available at a very
reasonable rate. Pack lunches or in-home lunches are also
provided with prior-day’s notice.

My Recommended Restaurants in Cusco:

As for the above mentioned restaurant recommendations,
here are a few summaries:
~Cicciolina: owned by a great friend of mine, Tammy and her
partner Cache, it is the newest and most innovative of places
(for Cusco). Delicious Alpaca, inventive pastas and awesome
(read: sumptuous) Pisco Sours. If I were going to let you take me
out for a drink, I'd make you take me there. Dinner included.
Cicciolina’s is best for romantic escapes from the chaos of Cusco!
It is on the second floor of a corner building on Calle Triunfo, kitty
-corner from the former Archbishop's Residence one block behind
the main cathedral and plaza.
~Baco: The younger sister to Cicciolina, this is a little more
flamboyant and artistic. It’s meals are more for sharing and the air
is a little sweeter as this is a wine bar with a fantastic selection of
wine deals and Pisco drinks. Eclectic mud Brick-Oven pizzas, grilled
seafood, meat and vegetable platters with basic fresh ingredients.
Yum. Best for groups of 4 or more. Calle Ruinas 465 Tel 242808.
Incanto: My new favorite place – almost all Italian and actually
pretty damn tasty. It’s cold, square, modern place that fits in
wonderfully among the Incan stonework of Cusco. Quite a departure
from the warm, lush tones of Tammy’s Cicciolina or Baco. Fantastic
meats and fish, but the pastas are true. Off the main square towards
Santa Catalina on Calle Arequipa.
~Los Toldos: spit-roast chicken, and juicy! Great lunch-time
filler-upper with a salad bar that I actually eat at! The corner of
Calle Almagro with San Andres, about 2 blocks below The Plaza
de Armas.
~A great coffee or snack stop in the Plaza with a great view is
Trotamondos. Teas, juices and sandwiches. Beautiful light all day
long.
~MAP is the restaurant in the Museuo Arte Precolumbino (MAP)
-- on Plaza Nazarenas. Great museum, very good restaurant.
~Los Perros: formerly of Tammy (of Cicciolina fame) and now run
by her Ex, it is a fantastic, down-home escape with great café,
drinks and sandwiches (but eclectic ones!). Also wontons and
assorted potato snacks worth munching. It is in most guide books
but hidden around the corner on Calle Tecsecocha also about 1.5
blocks from the Plaza behind Calle Procuradores.
~La Cofradia is run by a good friend of mine as well – Anthony
Velarde. He’s a great guide, naturalist and photographer and those
images from his treks adorn this well-crafted restaurant. He’s
famous in Peru for being the man who walked all Peru during a
two year journey. It’s unique place offering a Daily Menu for 5
soles that attracts middle-class locals. Great, clean and yummy
food for those wanting to try a safe local’s experience! It is located
just ¾ of a block from Toldos further down Almagro – you can
easily miss it as it’d down a very small walkway (safe!) that does
not appear obvious at first.
~In the Plaza itself, there are several tourist traps worth wading
into -- Inka Grill has great meat (not better than Cicciolina) and
La Retama is also lively with good bites. Worth a seat if you have
more than 4 days to spend in Cusco.
~A dinner with music approach is also fun: La Pacha Mama is a Peña
-- live traditional music with a tourist-bus approach. Clean and large.
It is South of the Plaza and you'll want to take a taxi there. An
alternative is the locals-only Las Tradiciones Cusqueñas which my
father-in-law helped launch. Clean, traditional foods with loud
music, you won't see another gringo here. It is just past Puente

Belen on Calle Belen. Very fun place for late dinner with dancing!

Nightlife:
~Later in the evening, a line-up of music and dancing abound:
Garabatos is a disco-pub with karaoke and then live music every
night after 10:30pm. Full of locals but very touristy. A great mix
of people, three stories high on the Northwest corner of Plaza
Regocijo (behind the main Plaza).
~Ukukus and Kamikaze are the two reigning champions of long-
term music shows. Mellow from 8-10pm and then live music kicks
in until midnight when a DJ takes over. Usually something every
night of the week with different groups rotating thru.

~The take-the-cake-and-eat-it-too award goes to El Muki (or just
Muki's) for best late-night grinding and eclectic cave & stone
decorations (you have to see it to believe it). Originally for locals
and now well balanced mix of sweat and sumptuous bodies of all
colors, it is our favorite for a real good time! After midnight, it starts moving. Especially on weekends. It is just off the Plaza on Santa
Catalina.